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Y/Project started out as menswear label with a big statement behind it’s name —“The label stands for freedom”— obliging the label to actually stand by this through out their collections. Nowadays the house expand their limits and became a womenswear brand, raising the expectations of the consumers and the media.
Everything in this Spring 2018 collection – his whole vision – had an utterly focussed direction, and fearless attitude. Glenn Martens has not changed the vision of the label itself, but in this collection he took the house style to a new level, whilst retaining that brand identity. In this Spring 2018 collection – his whole vision – had an utterly focussed direction, and fearless attitude.
In this collection, Glen Martens took the house style to a new level, whilst retaining the brand identity of Y/Project. He took the archetype of the geek dad, with his loose and floral shirts, and combined it with the country girl – with her beige cardigan and bold dangling jewelry, resulting in a very now nineties kid look.
The creative director wanted to give the collection a new technique of constructed pieces as seen in his voluptuous weightless dresses with a very Rick Owens direction, and the curved tight cut of the trousers. The media is labelling Martens as the only designer to dramatically create proportioned garments, that challenges different characters, but isn’t that what Demna Gvasalia is known for?
The great risk that perhaps is the magic in this collection, is the way he styles his infamous tight high boots, creating a full silhouette with the garment. There was a large variety of heavy curved footwear, all of them avoiding the glamorous look, that the brand stylist, Ursina Gysi aims for in her way of work. Challenging different characters and eras through the same objective of draped tailoring and night time sheer tulle pieces. Focusing his collection to a younger audience. As seen on his garments and on the front seat selection of people who attended the show.
It is interesting to see this new wave of style that creative directors (most of them recent in their current positions) are following, aiming the same target market with the hype as high as the prices in their garments. But what’s exactly the point of this new era? The need to be cool and post your “indie-cool-underground” pictures on Instagram? Of course. Selling? Absolutely. If Glenn Martens wants to continue raising the attention and the sales lifting to the roof, he couldn’t have done better than following this trend. But it is actually intriguing to see if the hype still continuous for his next collection.
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