Francesinha - a Tiny Part of France in Portuguese Cuisine

Food often has a way of bringing people together, its enjoyment being shared amongst people globally, creating new experiences, which lead to new memories. These memories are what ties different foods to different places. People remember the flavours, atmosphere, and culture around them at the time of eating, and associate the food to a specific place. This idea gives place an identity. These identities can be associated with countries as a whole, regions, or even cities, as is the case of the “Francesinha” sandwich in the city of Porto, Portugal. In this essay, I will explore how the “Francesinha” gives Porto its identity, by analyzing the history of its creation tying back to Portuguese immigration to France, the use of the well known Port wine in its special sauce, and how the sandwich is a representation of the culture in Porto. When people think about the “Francesinha,” their minds trace back to the beautiful city in Northern Portugal and all its wonders, and this essay will review and examine the reasons as to why this is the case.

The “Francesinha” is the product of innovative thinking, and bringing ideas together to make something great, which is the topic of discussion in Fernandes’ work. He uses theoretical analysis to understand how this dish is the result of cultural innovation, and how it has fused itself into the identity of Portuguese culture. Fernandes begins by describing cultural innovation as adopting a common form of behaviour through the use of a particular good or service in a group of people. He then goes on to relate this idea to the creation of the “Francesinha,” as it’s being was derived from French cuisine, these ideas being brought over from Daniel David da Silva, a Portuguese immigrant who lived in France. By imitating attributes of other products, the “Francesinha” was adopted into the Portuguese culture. Its initial way of being eaten was as a snack shared among a group of friends late at night, then tuning into what it is today, a large, full meal served in restaurants all over Porto. Fernandes believes that this behavioural change is due to the knowledge gained from abroad, which slowly puts its mark on the culture in Porto. Similarly in Deprez’s work, this idea of the French impact on the culture in Porto is once again touched upon, as she describes the wave of immigration that took place in the mid-nineteenth century from Porto and Northern Portugal to France, and how this impacted the Portuguese identity. In adapting to their new lifestyle, immigrants in France would not always teach their children Portuguese, therefore not always keeping alive the Portuguese culture. As Deprez explains, many did not want much to do with Portugal, but those who did wanted to show their new French lives to those back home. People would bring their new experiences and knowledge from France, back to Portugal, often encouraging a new way of life to be adopted. As shown in the works of both Fernades and Deprez, a culture’s identity is greatly impacted by cultural innovation, as is the case in Porto.

In their work, Lourenco-Gomes, Pinto, and Rebelo conducted a study aimed to determine how much the wines produced in the Douro Valley in Porto have impacted the region, and whether or not all the parts of the Douro Valley should be preserved for wine production. The Douro valley is the oldest, largest, and most diverse mountainous wine region in the world, and its soil is unlike any other. This makes the Douro valley a very important part of Portugal, and Porto in particular, as they have become a very sought after place for wine, not only impacting their economy for the better but also their reputation. Not only is the landscape itself unique, but the way in which the vines are grown using specific techniques, such as the older form of supporting the vines by schist walls, to the more modern techniques like the vertical planting of the vines. Port wine, also comes out of this region, and has become one of the oldest and most exported wines in Portugal, also being used greatly in Portuguese cuisine. From the study, Lourenco-Gomes et al. We’re able to conclude all parts of the Douro Valley are in favour of being preserved, and the production of wine is what has gotten Portugal where it is today, similar to what Charzyński, Łyszkiewicz, and Musiał, took away from their research about how the food production and dishes in Portugal promote its identity. Charzyński et al. investigated certain aspects of Portugal, such as tourism, festivities, cuisine and food production, and what this means to the country and its national identity. Portuguese people demonstrate what Portugal is about through their traditions, never-ending passion, and readiness for fun, but also by incorporating the food products they are known for, such as seafood, port wine, and olive oil, into every dish.

Although Porto a part of Portugal, it has a very distinct culture from other regions within the country, and this is what Schang focuses on in his study about Porto. He decided to dive into the different aspects that make Porto stand out, such as the unique traditions, culture, food, and way of life. Schang found that Porto is a city that remains unchanged in all the good ways, its old architecture and spirit being alive at every corner, with even the locals not changing their ways of being even when the city is constantly flooded with tourists. They remain living in an old, relaxed fashion, hanging clothes to dry on their verandas and enjoying their afternoon having a coffee at a local bakery. This is what Schang found was so unique about Porto, no matter how much times are changing, it remains a city that can take one back in time when life was not always so hurried. Even food is consumed in a much calmer and enjoyable fashion than in most other places in the world, which is related to what Duraes took away from her study about tourism in Porto, and what outsiders think when visiting the city. After looking into tourists’ thoughts about their visits to Porto, Duraes concluded that what makes the tourists’ stay in Porto so distinguishable from any other, is the culture, traditions, cuisine and wines, hospitality and enjoyment of the people there. Porto is a city unlike any other, a one-of-a-kind.

The incorporation of the “Francesinha” into Portuguese culture, is a product of bringing the experiences and lives of many Portuguese immigrants in France back to Portugal. The effect that Portuguese immigrants living in France has had on the Portuguese culture can be shown by narratives about “this tribute to the French”, in which the knowledge and customs learned in France, are brought back home to Portugal. The “Francesinha” is thought to be derived from the “croque-monsieur,” a popular sandwich in France, in which Daniel David Da Silva, returns home to Portugal from France with the idea to make this dish Portuguese. It is through experimenting with new knowledge and techniques in Porto, that Daniel was able to add a Portuguese spin to a French dish, making something thought of as the marker of Porto. He named it the “Francesinha” which can be translated to the “Frenchie.” Following this idea of innovation in bringing inspiration from France to Porto, one can look into the reason why France is so meaningful to the Porto’s culture, by examining the Portuguese immigration to France, and how this “running away from misery”, brought about a new invention, which was the “Francesinha.” Through her writing about Portuguese immigration to France, and its impact on Portuguese culture, Deprez describes how many families left the Porto Region in the twentieth century, in hopes of a better life. This move came with many challenges, like the adoption of a new way of life, and teasing from people back home. However, this immigration also came with great success, as those vacationing back home usually build big houses and drive nice cars to visually show their success. This is the part immigrants want people from Portugal to see. So, the bringing of French culture to Portugal by Daniel David Da Silva is a way to bring a positive light to the “Frenchies” and in a sense, thank France for the home that it has given so many Portuguese people.

Although the “Francesinha” is known to be the product of innovation and ideas from abroad, it is also seen as a part of Porto’s identity because of the traditional ingredients used in its creation. Today, there are different variations of the sandwich, but the traditional, and the most popular one, is made with two thick slices of bread, steak, five slices of cheese, one slice of ham, two types of Portuguese sausage, one egg, bacon, whiskey, onion, garlic, olive oil and some spices that give the dish its original flavours. However, what makes this dish ‘the signature of Porto’ is the Port wine used in the sauce, as a special ingredient to make it truly a Porto dish. Port wine is seen as a staple in Porto, as the Douro Valley, one of the world’s oldest and most beautiful vineyards, and situated in the heart of Porto, is covered with vines of grapes, its soil and climate is so unique, that Port wine can only be produced in this region. So, it is seen as a source of pride in Porto, which separates the city from the others. Port wine has a distinct spicy flavour, and a subtle taste of vanilla and oak, that allow it to stand out from the many wines of the world Through even the slightest taste or smell, this flavour is one that is known and allows for the recognition of Porto’s identity at any moment, and in any dish in which it is present. Not only is the wine itself unique, but the platforms of steep slopes in which the vineyards are situated, also provide for a memorable landscape . This touches upon memories and knowledge associated with the wine, which drawback to Porto’s distinct identity. Through the use of Port wine in the sauce of the “Francesinha,” one can get a taste of Porto, its beauty, culture, and traditions, as this unique flavour profile can only be achieved only by tying back to this magical city, its originality and distinction, shining through every bite.

The ingredients of the “Francesinha,” are, of course, a very important aspect of the dish, however for the people of Porto, also called “Portuenses,” it is not just about what is in the dish that is important, but how it is eaten. For them, food is not only about the taste but about the way and people in which it is shared with. In this city, life is taken a day at a time, and there is no need to stress about the future because life should be about living in the moment. Walking through the streets of Porto, it is common to see locals at cafes, sipping on coffee and enjoying pastries at any point in the day, talking loudly and having parties right in the street. It is believed that life should not be rushed, but instead, should be enjoyed at every moment, and a big part of this enjoyment comes through food. For this reason, when eating a “Francesinha,” Portuenses are known to enjoy it as a sit-down meal, where they can talk with friends and have some of their famous wine. It is not seen as a quick meal, much less a snack, but instead, a joyful, full meal enjoyed with others. No matter who is around, people of Porto will be themselves, honest, direct and loud, enjoying every minute of every day. For this reason, when eating a meal, they treat it as a gathering, something that should be enjoyed and savoured. It is through food, that the culture, tradition, and happiness of the Portuenses shine through, making eating a “Francesinha” in a local restaurant in Porto, a unique and unforgettable experience. With the memorable flavours and atmosphere taking place around, taking a bite of this famous sandwich is sure to be a moment that no one can forget, and Porto will always come to mind when eating it again.

The “Francesinha” has no doubt become a mark for Porto, with all its elements being a representation of the city. It is an innovative creation that brought together the culture that Portuguese immigrants were experiencing in France, back home to Portugal. These immigrants wanted to show those who stayed behind in Portugal that they were doing well, and that France was to be appreciated for providing a home for so many of them. The “Francesinha” also uses the Port wine produced in Porto, which is one of the main things Porto is known for, in its famous sauce, undoubtedly bringing about thoughts of the city. Lastly, the preparation and way the dish is eaten is a perfect representation of life in Porto. It is seen as an enjoyable meal, that should be eaten in a relaxed fashion, in the company of friends and family. This relaxed and fun lifestyle is exactly what the people of Porto are known for, and they do not shy away from incorporating their culture into every aspect, especially food. This demonstrates just how much food can build an identity for a certain place, just as it has for the city of Porto. All the aspects involved in food preparation, and most importantly consumption, allow for memorable experiences. These experiences are what remind people of specific places, and how food represents them.

References

• Charzyński, P., Łyszkiewicz, A., & Musiał, M. (2017). Portugal as a Culinary and Wine Tourism Destination. Geography and Tourism, 5, 87–102. Retrieved from http://geography.and.tourism.ukw.edu.pl
• Deprez, C. (2003). Sociolinguistic Remarks about Portuguese in France : construction of a stygmatized sociolect. Laboratoire De Sociolinguistique, 1–8. Retrieved from https://liberalarts.utexas.edu/france-ut/_files/pdf/resources/deprez.pdf
• Duraes, M. M. (2018). A Imagem do Destino Turistico Porto. Tese De Mestrado, 1–18. Retrieved from http://hdl.handle.net/10400.19/5484
• Fernandes, M. T. (n.d.). THE SLOW CULTURAL COOKING OF “FRANCESINHA. Innovation and Entrepreneurship and Regional Smart Specialization, 1–9. Retrieved from http://www.telesfernandes.net/uploads/1/0/9/6/10963838/the_slow_cultural_ cooking_of_francesinha.pdf
• LittlePortugal.co.uk - Francesinha Recipe - Alicarius - Restaurante e Snack-Bar. (2013). Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9G9xTNjYJk
• Lourenco-Gomes, L., Pinto, L. M. C., & Rebelo, J. (2015). Wine and Cultural Heritage. The Experience of the Alto Douro Region. Wine Economics and Policy, 4(2), 78–87. Retrieved from https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2212977415000277
• Schang, L. M. (2018). ISAR News. Antiviral Research, 149, e1–e14. Retrieved from https://doi.org/10.1016/S0166-3542(17)30823-9