Breaking Down The Extreme Sport of Surfing

You can’t stop the waves, but you can always learn to surf. Surfing is more than just a sport; it’s a perfectly balanced relationship between humans and the immense power of nature. The seemingly infinite combinations of boards and wave types create a unique connection between the massive ocean and tiny humans, captivating people since the 1700s. This pastime is rapidly becoming popular among younger people, making connecting to Mother Nature easier than ever.

Analyzing the Thrilling Sport of Surfing

Boards are designed for many reasons to enhance the surfer’s connection to the earth. Longboards, or cruisers, are designed for a mellow journey (Types of Surfboards, 2023). They allow for more creative riding, such as backward or even on one's hands. The fish is created for speed riding small waves. These boards offer a rider a fast-paced rush, allowing them to feel the charge of the ocean. The final common type of board to be seen is the short board, also known as the thruster. These boards make the art of surfing known from being seen in popular movies. Short boards are built for precision, power, and control. Riding a wave on one of these makes one feel extremely accomplished for being able to ride a huge wave on a piece of polyurethane covered with layers of fiberglass measuring just under 6’4. The type of board a rider will choose often depends on the wave they plan to ride.

Types of Waves

There are many types of waves to be surfed, all making for unique experiences. The most commonly seen waves in surf videos and movies are the immensely powerful reef breaks, such as the pipeline on North Shore. Reef breaks produce pipelines through which skilled surfers can glide, using every muscle in their body to balance and guide the board safely to the end of the wave. While inside one of these pipelines, one can experience fear, excitement, and curiosity all at the same time. These waves are relentless, wild, and sometimes unforgiving, but if ridden in perfection, they can provide a rare experience of the almighty ocean.

Another popular wave type is known as the beach break (Know What You’re Surfing, 2023). A beach break is where the wave breaks off onto a sandy seabed. On beach breaks, barrels can be surfed, making for a calmer, long peaceful ride. Most everyone learns how to surf on this type of wave because it is a safe environment in case of a wipeout. These smooth waves can be ridden as far as 20 feet in some places, such as Hossegor beach in Southern France. These waves are often ridden by crowds of surfers at popular beaches or surf school locations. Not only does it bring people together, but it also connects groups to nature all at once. Riders on barrels experience how nature can be exciting and ridiculously fun. Since barrels are often for learners, they double as a beginning to many people's relationship with the ocean and get people involved in preserving it.

Environmental Impact and Activism

In 2006, a toll road was proposed to go through Trestles beach, known as the Yosemite of surfing. The idea of commercializing nature for selfish capitalist reasons did not go unnoticed by the surfing communities in Southern California. Environmental activists, surfers, and local businesses teamed up to stop what would be the start of a disastrous end to the system of State Parks. It would have cost billions of taxpayers' dollars to build this toll road, and it would have completely destroyed numerous ecosystems and further polluted the air in Southern California. Together, these people fought at rallies and talked to members of the government to protect the nature they had grown to love and care so deeply for. This love of the ocean and these certain waves at Trestles would not have existed if it hadn’t been for the relationship between the waves and their riders.

Challenges and Concerns

In the past year, surfing has become more popular among people who do not respect nature as much as they should, which has upset many surfing communities. In beach towns such as Santa Cruz, bumper stickers that read “Don’t try surfing, it sucks” can be seen on many cars and telephone booths. These stickers are an effort to try and stop surfing from becoming a sport that is exploited and abused. Surfers want the ocean to remain sacred and mysterious, not turn into a commercialized place where people can surf for money and sponsorships from major corporations. More and more people are beginning to try and surf at a pro level so they can get sponsored and compete for titles and money. This is ruining the nature of the pastime, which is meant to bring people closer to the ocean and respect the one-of-a-kind environment we have on earth. Furthermore, the commercialization of surfing could lead to increased pollution and degradation of the natural beauty that surfers cherish.

Conclusion

Whether someone is riding a thruster on a pipeline off the coast of Australia or learning how to surf barrels off the coast of California, surfing will always be a beautiful way to connect to nature while learning not to fight it. It can be dangerous, but the risks are outweighed by the feeling one gets after a successful ride. Surfing teaches us that if you work with nature rather than fight it, nothing short of incredible memories will be created.

References

Know What You’re Surfing. (2023). Retrieved from https://www.example.com/know-your-surfing

Types of Surfboards. (2023). Retrieved from https://www.example.com/types-of-surfboards